24 September

We have had the funnest (I know there is no such word) and funniest few days. Overview of itinerary first. From Cannackle to Troy, Pergamom then Kusadasi. From Kusadasi to Pammukale and to Fetiye on the Mediterranean to join our gulet (boat) trip of 3 days.
Kusadasi is a lovely town with bays encircled by mountains. It's modern and caters to cruise boats but remains true to its Turkish character. We did a trip to Ephesus from there which was so wonderful the other ancient sites paled almost into insignificance for us. So much in tact:  a huge edifice which was the library,second only to the one in Alexandria, and a wonderful theatre, were impressive. Rows of drop toilets side by side without cubicles, were where a lot of socialising and important town politics took place! Cats everywhere (but then that's not unusual in Turkey) lying all over the ruins as if they own them. Unlike in other countries where this happens they do feed them biccies and they don't look emaciated. In more style, Antony and Cleopatra honeymooned there! Photos can't do the place justice. Also went to Virgin Mary's last home. It was up high, fresh air and peaceful with lovely treed area. They admit they are not 100% definite she was there but they have quite a few indications like the fact that the apostle John lived there at the time and he was her caretaker. On the way back we did two things which could have been crass tourist rubbish but both turned out to be very interesting and informative. One was a leather goods outlet. There was a room like a theatre with plush seats and a catwalk where male and female models displayed the coats very stylishly and expertly to uptempo music. The jackets were gorgeous. Very light and thin and great designs. Rob bought a very very nice one which is reversible with contrasting fabric and scarf/hood which can be attached for the smart look or detached for a more casual look. I didn't get one so my bank manager is not angry with me just yet. Then to a carpet place where we saw the girls hand weaving on looms. The carpets here were magnificent, ranging from "quite expensive" up to "forget it" ( unless you are furnishing a sultan's palace). At both places I was quite surprised to see how contemporary many items were. We got back in time to enjoy independent time and we explored Kusadasi on foot for 6 hours. Modern shops, bazaars, outdoor cafes, walk along harbour foreshore etc. We decided to go to the hairdressers so Robin could have a quick haircut. This is where the hilarity and adventure really began. Haircut ok despite language barrier and hand gestures with several people joining in the communication. I decided to get my eyebrows etc tidied up as I was beginning to look like Robert Menzies."Just 5 minutes" he said and proceeded to get out a long spool of cotton thread. He plucked by holding thread taut and pulling. Didn't hurt. Bit uncomfortable in places. But we didn't stop there. He did all the trouble spots that we girls know about and even the bum fluff on the cheeks. Then with a final flurry he waved a cigarette lighter (with protected flame) over everything just to clean up. If the customer is a man they do this for the nose hair. We thought it was hilarious and couldn't help laughing. Anyway, I came out of there with a face like a baby's. Unfortunately for the next few days my cheeks have had a slightly pimply looking rash! So is it better than when I first started?

Our meal was just as dramatic. I had a shiskebab on long skewers served over a bed of coals. Delicious. Rob's moussaka was delivered with ceremony in a flaming dish. We waddled out as we had also accepted the free mezze plate beforehand. Had to pass on the complementary fruit and the tea or coffee. A thoroughly memorable and enjoyable day.