October 8th

Have arrived back in Sydney and transferred to domestic terminal for flight home in a couple of hours.  Good flight upstairs in A380 but didn't sleep so feeling pretty spacey. Good to be back. Stopover in Singapore ok and opportunity to rest but we didn't actually enjoy it all that much. A lot of travellers to Asia don't choose to go there, believing it is too westernised. I actually liked the modernisation and out-there architecture but had a few unexpected difficulties. We were surprised how geared up it ISNT for tourists. People, including those in hotels, tourist offices, shops etc most unhelpful. Even down to hop on hop off buses that we opted for due to our tiredness, the humidity and limited time. So badly organised. Buses go everywhere but whole thing very confusing and there were tourists everywhere we went looking frustrated, trying to follow maps and understand the system. We were even offloaded at one stage and told to get new tickets as the type we were sold were superseded! Our hotel was well located near Clarke Quay and China town and had gorgeous beds and pillows (you can see where our priorities were at the stage of the trip!) but it wasn't what we envisaged. No concierge, tour desk or luxury facilities although to be fair there was a roof top pool which we didn't get to. It annoyed us until a manager explained that a Holiday Inn with Express in its name indicates fewer services. Wish we'd have understood that to begin with as it was adequate and the room was quite nice so we'd have accepted less convenience had we realised. Anyway, never mind. We were probably a bit tired and grumpy! I had a new taste sensation in durian ice cream. The creamy taste of durian without the stinky fruit itself.
Before I sign off on this blog I will add a round up and some general impressions of Turkey and also fill in some gaps in the itinerary. Sometimes I didn't have time to blog and sometimes after a long day I didn't get around to it. Overall, we had a great time.

October 5

October 5

Here we are on board Singapore Air flight Istanbul to Singapore. It's nippy enough for the blanket on the plane but won't be when we get there in six hours time! We have really had a varied and interesting time in Turkey. Such a country of contrasts, history and exotica. Have just finished a three day visit to another world...that is Cappodoccia. Unique and very difficult to describe. It's a cross between a moonscape, a fantasy land and troglodyte's movie set. We stayed in Goreme, one of the little towns there and took day trips from there. Cute little town with lovely hotels built to fit the setting, nestling in between weird rock formations shaped by time and weather. We stayed in Stone Cave Hotel which was just lovely, created in the image of one of the many caves in the region. The town is touristy but low key. The place would not be sustained without tourism. However in such an arid area it is surprising to find small crops growing like potatoes, onions and pumpkins which lie around in the fields. It has relied on tourism and trade for centuries and I was surprised to learn that it was situated on the old Silk Road. The highlight, in more ways than one, was a balloon flight over the valleys of fairy pinnacles, mushroom shaped natural structures (which you may describe otherwise when you see the photos) and cliffs with holes for pigeons and bigger holes which are/were windows for cave dwellers. Saw sunrise from up there which was pretty spectacular. Sunset brings a pinkish glow to the terrain. 

We have taken a couple of flights lately. It's a big country to see in three weeks. Went from Antalya to Kayseri in Cappadoccia and then back from Nevsehir to Istanbul for an overnight and a last dash to buy Turkish delight;  more flavours to choose from than at an ice cream parlour! A plug for Turkish Airlines. Nice planes, all went well. A big plug too for Turkey Travel Centre which organised this jigsaw of regional tours and independent experiences for us. Worked like clockwork and we met people everywhere who had nothing but praise. 

Pammukale

Can't get this to use a bigger font so hope it's legible. Haven't written about the day we went to Pammukale. There are huge terraces of  calcium there with "bowls" like clam shells with beautiful green water. Nicknamed the cotton castle as the white formations tumble down the hillside. Marie, you should see it now! Marie and I went decades ago and remember wandering out and sitting on one of these natural steps to watch the sunset, with few other people around. We also swam in a pool called Cleopatras bath, enjoying the sunken ruins or at least columns from antiquity. These days of course it is much busier. I expected that. But the swimming experience! My jaw dropped. It's like a big public baths, entry turnstiles, dressing cubicles, cafes, souvenir stands and zillions of tourists, many of whom were Russian.  Can't get over it. Next, what we have so successfully avoided so far in our travels, finally happened. Taken to an onyx workshop and encouraged to buy onyx products far too heavy to carry on planes, and the likes of which you see all over the world. Boring waste of time. But the hotel we stayed at made our stay memorable. Not only was it quite luxurious but it took full advantage of the thermal waters in the area. We had a genuine Turkish bath, not a tourist's poor version of one even though it was in a hotel. Sauna first, then entry to the actual bath. It was funny as we had requested women do the bathing but instead got two young men. Protested at first but finally, what the hell, off came all the gear. Must say they were very nice and respectful. On the respect thing, by the way, I have been called mumma several times. All this depilation, mud baths etc must not be making me look any younger! Anyway, the bathroom was delightful. A big round marble slab where we stretched out, lovely tiled walls and decorated ceiling. We were scrubbed with loofah mits  and massaged  and covered in bubbly foam. Hot and cold water thrown over us for refreshing rinsing, Oh what heaven, neck massage included. Into the hot pool (caldarium) then cold (frigidarium). Great experience.