October 8th

Have arrived back in Sydney and transferred to domestic terminal for flight home in a couple of hours.  Good flight upstairs in A380 but didn't sleep so feeling pretty spacey. Good to be back. Stopover in Singapore ok and opportunity to rest but we didn't actually enjoy it all that much. A lot of travellers to Asia don't choose to go there, believing it is too westernised. I actually liked the modernisation and out-there architecture but had a few unexpected difficulties. We were surprised how geared up it ISNT for tourists. People, including those in hotels, tourist offices, shops etc most unhelpful. Even down to hop on hop off buses that we opted for due to our tiredness, the humidity and limited time. So badly organised. Buses go everywhere but whole thing very confusing and there were tourists everywhere we went looking frustrated, trying to follow maps and understand the system. We were even offloaded at one stage and told to get new tickets as the type we were sold were superseded! Our hotel was well located near Clarke Quay and China town and had gorgeous beds and pillows (you can see where our priorities were at the stage of the trip!) but it wasn't what we envisaged. No concierge, tour desk or luxury facilities although to be fair there was a roof top pool which we didn't get to. It annoyed us until a manager explained that a Holiday Inn with Express in its name indicates fewer services. Wish we'd have understood that to begin with as it was adequate and the room was quite nice so we'd have accepted less convenience had we realised. Anyway, never mind. We were probably a bit tired and grumpy! I had a new taste sensation in durian ice cream. The creamy taste of durian without the stinky fruit itself.
Before I sign off on this blog I will add a round up and some general impressions of Turkey and also fill in some gaps in the itinerary. Sometimes I didn't have time to blog and sometimes after a long day I didn't get around to it. Overall, we had a great time.

October 5

October 5

Here we are on board Singapore Air flight Istanbul to Singapore. It's nippy enough for the blanket on the plane but won't be when we get there in six hours time! We have really had a varied and interesting time in Turkey. Such a country of contrasts, history and exotica. Have just finished a three day visit to another world...that is Cappodoccia. Unique and very difficult to describe. It's a cross between a moonscape, a fantasy land and troglodyte's movie set. We stayed in Goreme, one of the little towns there and took day trips from there. Cute little town with lovely hotels built to fit the setting, nestling in between weird rock formations shaped by time and weather. We stayed in Stone Cave Hotel which was just lovely, created in the image of one of the many caves in the region. The town is touristy but low key. The place would not be sustained without tourism. However in such an arid area it is surprising to find small crops growing like potatoes, onions and pumpkins which lie around in the fields. It has relied on tourism and trade for centuries and I was surprised to learn that it was situated on the old Silk Road. The highlight, in more ways than one, was a balloon flight over the valleys of fairy pinnacles, mushroom shaped natural structures (which you may describe otherwise when you see the photos) and cliffs with holes for pigeons and bigger holes which are/were windows for cave dwellers. Saw sunrise from up there which was pretty spectacular. Sunset brings a pinkish glow to the terrain. 

We have taken a couple of flights lately. It's a big country to see in three weeks. Went from Antalya to Kayseri in Cappadoccia and then back from Nevsehir to Istanbul for an overnight and a last dash to buy Turkish delight;  more flavours to choose from than at an ice cream parlour! A plug for Turkish Airlines. Nice planes, all went well. A big plug too for Turkey Travel Centre which organised this jigsaw of regional tours and independent experiences for us. Worked like clockwork and we met people everywhere who had nothing but praise. 

Pammukale

Can't get this to use a bigger font so hope it's legible. Haven't written about the day we went to Pammukale. There are huge terraces of  calcium there with "bowls" like clam shells with beautiful green water. Nicknamed the cotton castle as the white formations tumble down the hillside. Marie, you should see it now! Marie and I went decades ago and remember wandering out and sitting on one of these natural steps to watch the sunset, with few other people around. We also swam in a pool called Cleopatras bath, enjoying the sunken ruins or at least columns from antiquity. These days of course it is much busier. I expected that. But the swimming experience! My jaw dropped. It's like a big public baths, entry turnstiles, dressing cubicles, cafes, souvenir stands and zillions of tourists, many of whom were Russian.  Can't get over it. Next, what we have so successfully avoided so far in our travels, finally happened. Taken to an onyx workshop and encouraged to buy onyx products far too heavy to carry on planes, and the likes of which you see all over the world. Boring waste of time. But the hotel we stayed at made our stay memorable. Not only was it quite luxurious but it took full advantage of the thermal waters in the area. We had a genuine Turkish bath, not a tourist's poor version of one even though it was in a hotel. Sauna first, then entry to the actual bath. It was funny as we had requested women do the bathing but instead got two young men. Protested at first but finally, what the hell, off came all the gear. Must say they were very nice and respectful. On the respect thing, by the way, I have been called mumma several times. All this depilation, mud baths etc must not be making me look any younger! Anyway, the bathroom was delightful. A big round marble slab where we stretched out, lovely tiled walls and decorated ceiling. We were scrubbed with loofah mits  and massaged  and covered in bubbly foam. Hot and cold water thrown over us for refreshing rinsing, Oh what heaven, neck massage included. Into the hot pool (caldarium) then cold (frigidarium). Great experience. 

Photos from gulet trip

Kas

24 September

We have had the funnest (I know there is no such word) and funniest few days. Overview of itinerary first. From Cannackle to Troy, Pergamom then Kusadasi. From Kusadasi to Pammukale and to Fetiye on the Mediterranean to join our gulet (boat) trip of 3 days.
Kusadasi is a lovely town with bays encircled by mountains. It's modern and caters to cruise boats but remains true to its Turkish character. We did a trip to Ephesus from there which was so wonderful the other ancient sites paled almost into insignificance for us. So much in tact:  a huge edifice which was the library,second only to the one in Alexandria, and a wonderful theatre, were impressive. Rows of drop toilets side by side without cubicles, were where a lot of socialising and important town politics took place! Cats everywhere (but then that's not unusual in Turkey) lying all over the ruins as if they own them. Unlike in other countries where this happens they do feed them biccies and they don't look emaciated. In more style, Antony and Cleopatra honeymooned there! Photos can't do the place justice. Also went to Virgin Mary's last home. It was up high, fresh air and peaceful with lovely treed area. They admit they are not 100% definite she was there but they have quite a few indications like the fact that the apostle John lived there at the time and he was her caretaker. On the way back we did two things which could have been crass tourist rubbish but both turned out to be very interesting and informative. One was a leather goods outlet. There was a room like a theatre with plush seats and a catwalk where male and female models displayed the coats very stylishly and expertly to uptempo music. The jackets were gorgeous. Very light and thin and great designs. Rob bought a very very nice one which is reversible with contrasting fabric and scarf/hood which can be attached for the smart look or detached for a more casual look. I didn't get one so my bank manager is not angry with me just yet. Then to a carpet place where we saw the girls hand weaving on looms. The carpets here were magnificent, ranging from "quite expensive" up to "forget it" ( unless you are furnishing a sultan's palace). At both places I was quite surprised to see how contemporary many items were. We got back in time to enjoy independent time and we explored Kusadasi on foot for 6 hours. Modern shops, bazaars, outdoor cafes, walk along harbour foreshore etc. We decided to go to the hairdressers so Robin could have a quick haircut. This is where the hilarity and adventure really began. Haircut ok despite language barrier and hand gestures with several people joining in the communication. I decided to get my eyebrows etc tidied up as I was beginning to look like Robert Menzies."Just 5 minutes" he said and proceeded to get out a long spool of cotton thread. He plucked by holding thread taut and pulling. Didn't hurt. Bit uncomfortable in places. But we didn't stop there. He did all the trouble spots that we girls know about and even the bum fluff on the cheeks. Then with a final flurry he waved a cigarette lighter (with protected flame) over everything just to clean up. If the customer is a man they do this for the nose hair. We thought it was hilarious and couldn't help laughing. Anyway, I came out of there with a face like a baby's. Unfortunately for the next few days my cheeks have had a slightly pimply looking rash! So is it better than when I first started?

Our meal was just as dramatic. I had a shiskebab on long skewers served over a bed of coals. Delicious. Rob's moussaka was delivered with ceremony in a flaming dish. We waddled out as we had also accepted the free mezze plate beforehand. Had to pass on the complementary fruit and the tea or coffee. A thoroughly memorable and enjoyable day.

Gulet experience

Gulet Experience...Boat trip

Have been "off air" for a few days as we have been off shore. We had a private car trip (just the two of us)from Pammukale to Fetiye on the Mediterranean to join our gulet for three days on the boat. A gulet is a former sponge fishing sailing boat and they've been done up for cruising. Very basic and we've only motored but it's a good thing to do. They take us to several places a day for swimming and also to see some interesting places like the mausoleums built high up in rocky cliffs of Caunos dated from 4-2 century BC. They were reached by winding channels of the river delta lined with bullrushes and water bamboo so it's a bit of an African Queen experience. It was busier than usual because it has been a four day holiday here but the day trippers thinned out and we moored in little bays each night. Cook is good; simple tasty food with fresh produce served on a large table on the deck. The people on board (only 11) are about our age and from varied places: England, Peru, Wales, Italy and Germany. All well travelled so interesting conversations on deck etc. The cabins are tiny and it must be a struggle for couples. Bed up against wall. Rob and I lucky to have one each although we hadn't booked singles.
We also went to some thermal pools and mud bath pools. What a hoot! Looked like warriors all hoping to look 7 years younger..it was sulphurous and smelt like rotten eggs so not sure if you could call it a beauty regime or not! Spent plenty of time lounging on deck. The icecream man came around in a boat but he didn't play Greensleeves. Tonight moored in Marmaris for the night. It's buzzing with yachties and there is a football match on tonight with tvs set up in restaurants. The waterfront is lined with beautiful restaurants and the shops are quite upmarket. However there is the inevitable bazaar and the winding back streets are postcard-like with little lanes like those on the Greek Islands. In facts Rhodes can be seen from around here and day trips by ferry are available.
Adding some photos but have no idea how they will show up. My iPad has turned black and white and can't be restored no matter what we try and today it has decided to give me one coloured strip. I tried them on someone's computer and they displayed in colour so who knows. Worse problem...I dropped my phone in the toilet and it has given up the ghost! Didn't like being treated like s--- I guess. Is this an excuse to buy the new model that's just come out?

22 September

Troy today.  Up high with wonderful views over the valley. Hard to comprehend the age of  these ancient places. Trojan horse took pride of place amongst the ruins. The veracity of the story is questionable but fun. Had silly photo taken up in the wooden horse. Funny signs to designate male and female toilets...Paris and Helen. Long drive on to Pergamom. The "modern" town was interesting with winding lanes, men playing backgammon and drinking Turkish coffee, old houses etc. Winding road up steep mountain to ruined city. Guide told us so much historical info I will never remember it.

This tour we are on works differently to the norm. It's not a matter of meeting your guide, getting on a coach with fellow travellers and "doing" the trip together. It's actually made up of a series of regional tours with different guides and transport in each. Some people continue on to next destination with us and others go elsewhere. We usually have about six people in group. Accommodation and transport and sightseeing is organised for us and so far it's all worked like clockwork. There is independent time written in to the itinerary and we find our own dinner places almost every night. When we eat at touristy places, food very ordinary but in other restaurants healthy, tasty and quite cheap. Had some nice red wine (sometimes chilled). Those who drink beer like  Efes brand. Which brings us to Efes (Ephesus) tomorrow. 

21st September

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Long day again today at the battlefields and memorials at Gallipoli. Not usually my type of thing but it was very moving, especially the gravestones. Visited Anzac Cove, the cove where they now hold the Anzac ceremony, Lone Pine, Simpson's ( bloke with the donkey) grave, tunnels and trenches. Also went to a new Anzac museum opened a few years ago.  Quite good adio visuals and 3D presentations as well as artefacts. Told from the Turkish perception and well done. Saw large Turkish memorial and cemetery too. What a sad and futile fiasco the whole thing was. Staying at Cannakale tonight and heading to Kusadasi tomorrow via Troy and Pergamum.

Basilica cistern, Istanbul

September 20

Started off at the Basilica cisterns this morning. Staircases led down to what would be dark watery channels except they were lit by small orange lights on ancient columns..Both lights and columns reflected in the water. Statues like the one of Medusa had stood there since about 550BC. That's even older than me! Did a very touristy thing and had photo taken in costume. What on earth I'll do with it now I don't know! Then we decided to just wander around the little streets of cafes and shops.  I bought a fabric wall hanging or table runner or whatever it turns out to be when I get it home. Back to hotel for rest and drink and will venture out again tonight to see mosques lit up. Call to prayer is happening at the moment but for me it is more like a call to put the tired feet up for a while. Tomorrow off to Gallipoli and staying at Canakkale for a couple of nights.

September 18 ( a retrospective look!)

Was too tired after the flight from Sydney to Istanbul to write up this day so will fill in a little now. It looked on paper to be far too much for one day and it was full on but as so many of these things are very close to each other it was quite manageable and also close to our hotel, which incidentally, is historic...a revamped wooden building built over an ancient cistern.

Went via the hippodrome (old chariot racing site) to Hagia Sophia mosque, my favourite. The domes, minarets, ceilings, calligraphy, flagstone floors, carpets etc etc. Blue Mosque good too, especially the tiles, but it was very crowded especially as it was Friday and the mosque was closed to visitors for several hours so lots of people there at the same time. Had a meal in one of the ubiquitous little cafes. All the mezzes first, then a donner kebab like no other... Not exactly like those in our food courts! Then to Grand Bazaar but not enough time there so will probably go back. First impressions are that the Spice Maket is more characterful. Topkapi Palace ok, situated right on the water but I had been before and wasn't overwhelmed. Group taken to a carpet shop where lots was explained, apple tea was served and only a few bought rugs, once again not pressured although there was plenty of that going on elsewhere.

Stay tuned!

19th September

Earlyish start today for markets, mosques, palaces and boat trip on the Bosphorus. Started at the Spice Market which has much more than spices(although they are fascinating) and is a real Aladdins cave. Not too much hard sell either. Then a mosque called The New Mosque (it's ancient) which had similar decorative aspects to the Blue Mosque but much easier to make your way around without the hordes. Onto the boat to sail up the coast on the European side and down the cost on Asian side. Wonderful waterside mansions, yachts and restored wooden buildings. Both sides similar but E side busier with commercial and business focuses plus historical interest. A side quieter, greener and more residential. Had lunch way up on Istanbul's highest hill at a balcony restaurant with panoramic views. The lunch was atrocious so you can't have everything! Back to the very ornate Sultans palace...shades of Versailles nice, but a bit less tasteful. Lots of gold leaf, marble staircases and the biggest chandelier in the world. All prime realestate

15th September

All packed and ready to go. Leaving tomorrow at 6pm on Singapore Airlines bound for Istanbul via Singapore.